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Short Order: Dos Sabores Taqueria and Mexican Grill – Food & Dining – Columbus Monthly

Dos Sabores, a food truck operated by two brothers, has transformed into a traditional restaurant offering exceptional Mexican cuisine.

Owner Cesar Ramirez, a 29-year-old from Cholula, Mexico, proudly showcases the cuisine of Puebla, his native state, at Dos Sabores Taqueria and the Mexican Grill. Originally launched as a food truck in 2018, the restaurant offers several specialties rarely seen on the city’s Mexican menus.

Ramirez’s cemita sandwiches ($ 9 to $ 12) feature a homemade sesame seed roll, stuffed with layers of veggies, dairy, and protein. In his youth, cemitas were only accessible in the nearby town of Puebla, where the sandwich originated, Ramirez says. “It was amazing,” he said with a smile, reflecting on those special first indulgences.

The Dos Sabores cemitas have Olympic proportions. Inside, contrasting layers combine successfully; they include a thick layer of refried beans, a slice of ham, and a main protein such as breaded chicken or pork. The carefully chopped avocado mixes with chopped white onion, a layer of mayonnaise and a generous pinch of grated Oaxacan cheese or quesillo. From the first bite, papalo, a bold cilantro-like herb, shines through. Warm notes in the form of smoky-sweet chipotle peppers are noticeable. (Pickled jalapeños are also an option.)

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Memelas ($ 4 to $ 5) are a regional version of Mexico City huarache, a dish popular across Mexico with a masa base. Ramirez’s memelas feature a mound of toppings on a dense yet soft base, best described as the cousin of flatbread.

Growing up, Ramirez’s family made memelas topped with beans, cheese and salsa. To meet the regular demands of his food truck patrons, Ramirez, who often gets help at the restaurant from his brother Miguel, has started offering fried chicken, beef or pork in addition to beef tongue. and campechana (aka Mexican seafood cocktail) for more adventurous eaters.

Ramirez keeps the rest of the small menu focused on well-executed dishes that can be prepared on site every day, and that doesn’t disappoint. Served with diced onions and cilantro, the tacos ($ 2- $ 3) are small but powerful, especially fantastic with a squirt of green or red salsa made on the spot by Ramirez’s mother. The red version packs a punch; the green contains refreshing notes of coriander and lime.

Regional cuisine is not the only reason to visit Dos Sabores. During a weekend visit, almost every table was full of customers tending to frozen Modelos or tall glasses of red-rimmed Micheladas, a dress beer mixed with tomato juice, hot sauce. and lime. Amidst a colorful backdrop, families gathered, chatting happily over the whisper of football playing on TV in the background.

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