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Parrillan Borough Yards review – the Spanish steakhouse evolves – Test drives – Hot dinners

Head under one of the arches at the entrance to Borough Yards and you’ll find Parrillan waiting for you

What can you tell us about Parrillan?

Spinning off from The Harts Group (also behind El Pastor), Parrillan began as a Barrafina spin-off with a focus on Spanish fire cooking, specifically with individual parrilla grills that are brought to the table. It was launched in King’s Cross at Coal Drops Yard as an all-out restaurant. This is the second Parrillan, this time in the new Borough Yards development.

What to know about this new?

The biggest change from before is that there is a large indoor dining area, something they didn’t have at King’s Cross. So, in addition to being bigger, the extra kitchen space meant they were able to add larger share dishes to the menu.

bedroomHere is the main terrace for dining outside – you can order the individual parrilla grills here.

bedroomThe interior space is quite large too – with some larger spaces and a good view of the kitchen

Where is he?

It is part of the new Borough Yards development which has opened right next to the market, with many new restaurants and a new Everyman Cinema. Walk down Stoney Street and you will see the main entrance to the yards just past BAO. They took over a section of buildings under the arches next to Borough Market on the evocative title Dirty Lane (the 18th century street name had fallen into disuse but was brought back as part of the development of Borough Yards). As you would expect, the nearest tube and train station is London Bridge.

For the Harts, it’s not just about Parrillan either. Connected under one roof, but separated by hallways and in very different spaces, you’ll not only find Parrillan, but also a great new Barrafina (opening soon) and Bar Daskal, their Mallorcan-inspired wine and sherry bar.

Where should we meet for a drink first?

When Daskal opens in mid-June it will be an obvious spot, but Parillan also has a real dedicated seating area outside on the terrace, which is a lovely spot for a chilled glass of fino before dinner.

bedroomThere is a fairly large bar outside

Do we want to be inside or outside?

Much depends on whether you go for the individual parrilla grill element of dinner. If you do, you will need to be outside. Inside, the large open kitchen creates a lively ambience and one wall is open to the elements so you get a sense of the terrace inside anyway.

It’s worth noting that the terrace features an innovation we haven’t seen before, in addition to umbrellas and outdoor heaters, each seat comes with electric heated seat cushions which were surprisingly effective.

So what’s on the menu.

There are a number of new dishes on the menu – including a popular addition – the wood-roasted veal shank which looks quite spectacular. Chef-director Angel Zapata Martin has drawn inspiration from all over Spain and the dishes are usually designed to be shared. We opted for a mix of old and new dishes to get a feel for the place. Here is what we had:

bedroomPan de coca con tomàquet de penjar (£8) – honestly this Catalan tomato bread was literally better than anything we had in Barcelona recently. These tomatoes were incredibly delicious.

bedroomLamb sweetbreads with tropea onions (£22) – all smoked from the grill but with an added touch of sweetness from those onions.

bedroomWe felt compelled to try the parilla grill, not least because we can’t resist a bit of DIY dinner. For £45 you get a selection of cuts of Iberian pork to cook yourself on your own table grill. It is also accompanied by a pot of very gourmet aioli.

bedroomOur server gave us some tips on which cuts would benefit from a longer or shorter time on the grill. Everything is very simple and quite rewarding too.

bedroomPimentos Asados ​​(£8) – pressured by our waiter to add this main course, we were so glad we did. Celestial and celestial roasted peppers.

What’s on the menu for vegetarians?

For a restaurant with grilled meats at its heart, there is a lot of vegetarian side. As well as the usual olives (which are smoked here) and padron peppers, there was a seasonal dish of English asparagus with mayonnaise and hazelnut vinaigrette and a large main course of arroz de primavera.

And then there’s this, which we think is a must-have command:

bedroomWe were particularly won over by this Tart with wild mushrooms and leeks, St George sauce and morels (£26), especially with this amazing garnish.

Room for dessert?

There is a small list of about five desserts including the sorbet of the day. But there was one clear option we had to try:

bedroomThe whole Catalan pina to share (£30) is a real favourite. It’s basically Catalan cream served in a pineapple (with the pineapple pieces under the custard) with a separate slice filled with pineapple ice cream. It would be an advantage to be inside the restaurant as you might see it burnt – we feel they should do this at the table, health and safety permitting.

And to drink?

The list of all-Spanish drinks ranges from Sangria Blanco to start or a short list of Spanish G&Ts. Glasses of wine start from £6.50 (for 125ml) and a decent selection is available by the glass and decanter. That said, wine starts at a pretty punchy £35 a bottle, with most being between £40 and £60. Our Godello was a very decent option at £38.

General thoughts

This may be a second outing for the Parrillan brand, but it looks like quite a different beast to the King’s Cross original. Its setting under the arches here in Borough has been very cleverly (and beautifully) landscaped. The addition of the indoor restaurant with this large lounge makes it an even better bet to sit down and enjoy a wonderful Spanish lunch or dinner.

Learn more about Parrillan

Where is he? 4 Dirty Lane, London SE1 9PA

How to book? online booking

Learn more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @parrillanlondon.

Hot dinners eaten as Parrillan’s guests. Prices are correct at time of writing.

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