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Colony Grill restaurant London chef Ben Boeynaems

What:A recently renovated restaurant within The Beaumont hotel in Mayfair. The Colony Grill retains its 1920s New York vibe and corresponding transatlantic cuisine theme, but more attention is paid to sourcing and the menu is now more ambitious and contemporary. The Beaumont was started by The Wolseley and The Delaunay owners Chris Corbin and Jeremy King in 2014, but the duo severed ties with the property in 2018.

Who:The food overhaul at The Colony Grill is overseen by Beaumont Executive Chef Ben Boeynaems, who joined the Brown Hart Gardens hotel just before the first lockdown in February 2020. With a resume that includes Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s and Eric Chavot at The Capital, he certainly knows a thing or two about the upper echelons of the London hotel food scene. Most recently, he has held executive chef positions at the Goring Hotel and the Zetter Group. The Beaumont is now owned by the Barclay brothers, who also own the Ritz.

The atmosphere:The Colony Grill dining room has been “refreshed”. Despite its rather timeless appearance, it has the cool feel of a newly opened place, so it’s clear the management hasn’t skimped. Additions to the 80-cover space include striking large-scale murals and a number of smaller maximalist works of art.

The food:Boeynaems’ menu balances simple hotel grilled classics that would shine in their absence – including steak tartare, shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, veal liver with onion and bacon and a selection of steaks. – with more distinctive options. Dishes at the latter camp include buttermilk fried spring chicken with a roast chicken emulsion; Gigha Halibut with Buttered Dorset Crab, Seaweed Gnocchi, Fennel and Crab Bisque; and strozzapreti carbonara with smoked eel. Desserts include Foster bananas; Beaumont honey with lemon and thyme natural yogurt; and fully bespoke sundaes (the latter is ordered via a dedicated check sheet that appears on the table as the dishes are cleaned).

And something else:Le Magritte de Beaumont bar will be relaunched later this month in a new location within the hotel. It will be run by the recently appointed bar manager Antonino Lo Iacono (with experience at Rules, Dukes and, more recently, the neighboring Mark’s Club, he is well suited for the role). Inspired by 1920s New York, the bar will specialize in bourbon and other American whiskeys. Food is overseen by Boeynaems and will include a dedicated oyster and caviar menu as well as a selection of light bites including French toast, bacon, truffle and jam; and hot mustard corndogs.


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